VACCINATION, FEEDING, SUPPLEMENTS, EXERCISE AND ALL THAT GOOD STUFf

While one could think that puppies are born with a clean slate, they often carry “a pack full of problems” from previous generations. These problems are not just genetic. Puppies are burdened by the imbalances and health issues of their parents.

Excessive vaccination, poor nutrition, stress, and the use of immunosuppressive drugs such as anti-inflammatories and corticosteroids can create chronic imbalances that reflect in the health of offsprings.

SUPPLEMENTS

Most people understand the role of vitamins and perhaps omega oils in health. However, many are unaware that the most common causes of disease and premature aging are mineral deficiencies.

Not one single mineral can be manufactured by the body, and minerals are severely depleted even in organic foods. The main reasons are intensive agriculture, excessive soil exploitation, and fatigue.

That is why any pregnant or lactating mother should be getting these basic supplements:

Essential minerals and Superfood supplement
A high-quality Certified Organic Multivitamin
High-quality Omega Oils
Non-dairy-based live Probiotics promote good digestion and proper immune system function.

The most well-known issue of mineral deficiency in pregnant and nursing bitches is lack of blood calcium in pregnant or nursing bitches – eclampsia. One of the causes of postpartum eclampsia is under functioning parathyroid gland, which leads to a slower release of calcium. However, the proper function of the pituitary gland also depends on the presence of other minerals and nutrients.

Feeding lactating bitches, a balanced diet, and essential supplements is equally essential for the well-being of puppies and their development.

BEWARE OF PUPPY MILLS

If you are planning to get a puppy, the most generous way is to choose one from a rescue shelter. You will feel great about your decision and also give a home to a dog that would otherwise continue to suffer or be euthanized.

If you would rather get a puppy from a breeder, you definitely need to stay away from puppy mills, suspicious ads, and pet stores that buy puppies.

Puppy mill operators (ab)use dogs as breeding machines. They lock them in cages and rarely walk them, and most of the dogs suffer tremendously.

Besides the endless suffering, puppies of these dogs often end up with serious, irreversible health issues that even a miracle healer or a vet will not solve. I am warning you right here that treating these problems will suck your pocket dry and break your heart.

If you feel the urge to “rescue” a puppy mill puppy, buying one creates more demand, which is exactly what the puppy broker or puppy mill owner wants. Not buying one will make them go bankrupt, and hopefully, they will surrender the dogs to authorities.

I suggest that if you can’t find the dog of your liking in your area, there are many homeless dogs in “kill shelters” all over Canada, the US, or third-world countries.

How to Choose a Responsible Breeder

I'm often asked this question by folks who have been running the gamut from Craigslist, local newspapers, internet search engines, etc. So, I decided to create a checklist of sorts that I would use if I were searching for a puppy...of any breed. Here are some things to consider:

**Will NOT sell you a puppy without meeting you and/or contacting your referrals.

**Is a member in good standing with AKC, the Parent Club for their breed (Basset Hound Club of America/BHCA).

**Raises their dogs/pups as part of the family and does not keep them locked outside in a kennel/cage/run or tied/chained in the yard.

**Encourages you to have a look around their establishment and shows you where the dogs are kept/raised.

**Encourages you to spend time with the pups and their mother (the father/stud is usually brought in from another breeder & after breeding is performed, he is sent back to their home).

**The breeder’s dogs are happy to see/greet people . . . no shying away, trembling or aggressive behavior.

**Shows you the paperwork (certificates) regarding all vet visits/vaccinations for the puppies and the mother; knows the mother's past and present medical history; examples: *all breeds require different types of tests; if you are unsure of the type of testing that is required for the breed that you are interested in, best to contact your local veterinarian & ask what tests should be performed by the breeder.

**Proof of genetic DNA swab.

**Gives you specific details regarding how old the mother is and how many litters she has had. The mother should be at least 2.5 -3 years old before she has her first litter, with a maximum of having 2 -3 litters in her entire lifetime.

**Does not allow you to adopt your new puppy before 12–14 weeks old . . . depending on breed.

**Requires that they are identified with a microchip or tattoo.

**Explains/outlines any problems specific to the breed of the pup (e.g., hip dysplasia, Progressive Retinal Atrophy, etc.); every breed has specific genetic predispositions.

**Informs you of any specific care requirement for the breed - grooming necessities/guidelines for long hair breeds such as the Shih Tzu, Bichon Frise, Maltese, etc.

**Offers recommendations and/or information regarding training, socializing, and integrating your new member into your family

**Feeds their dogs/pups a high-quality diet; explains the diet the pup(s) have been on and how to integrate it into your home/lifestyle (e.g., if dogs/pups have been raised on a raw diet)

**Maintains the highest standards of cleanliness, care, and canine health.

**Ask you questions such as why you want a dog, do you have the time and basic requirements (fenced backyard) to own a dog, who will be the main caregiver, and why did you choose this particular breed?

**Is extremely knowledgeable about their particular breed, the temperament of the breed, the basic exercise/grooming requirements, etc.

**Does not sell their puppies to pet stores (or out of the trunk of their car/van in the Walmart parking lot!!!)

**Have you signed a contract with the following conditions:

You will spay/neuter the pup unless you plan on showing it (show quality dogs only).
The pup will be returned to the breeder at any point in the dog's life if there is any problem with keeping it (the pup will never be taken to a shelter).
These are just a few of the things to consider in your journey to acquire a healthy, happy Basset Hound puppy. Remember, you get what you pay for!

"I Don't Want a Show Dog: I Just Want a Pet"

This is one of the most pervasive sentiments that I hear from puppy buyers (especially families) express when they're looking for a dog. What they really mean, of course, is that they don't want a show BREEDER-don't want to pay the high price they think show breeders charge, don't want to go through the often-invasive interview process, and think that they're getting a better deal or a real bargain because they can get a Lab for $300 or a Shepard for $150.

I want you to change your mind. I want you to not only realize the benefits of buying a show-bred dog, I want you to INSIST on a show-bred dog. And I want you to realize that the cheap dog is really the one that's a rip-off. Then I want you to go be obnoxious and, when your workmate says she's getting a puppy because her neighbor, who raises them, will give her one for free, or when your brother-in-law announces that they're buying a Goldendoodle for the kids, I want you to launch yourself into their solar plexus and steal their wallets and their car keys!!! Here's Why:

If I ask you why you want a Maltese, or a Lab, or a Leonberger, or a Cardigan, I would bet you're not going to talk about how much you like their color. You're going to tell me things about their personality, ability (to perform specific tasks), relationships with other animals or humans, size, coat, temperament, and so on. You'll describe playing ball, or how affectionate you've heard that they are, or how well they get along with kids.

The things you will be looking for aren't the things that describe just "dog"; they'll be the things that make this particular breed unique and unlike other breeds.

That's where people have made the right initial decision - they've taken the time and made the effort to understand that there are differences between breeds and that they should get one that at least comes close to matching their picture of what they want a dog to be.

Their next step, tragically, is that they go out and find a dog of that breed for as little money and with as much ease as possible.

You need to realize that when you do this, it is as if you're going to a used car dealership, WATCHING them pry the "Audi" plate off a new car, observing them as they use Bondo to stick it on a '98 Corolla, and then writing them a check and feeling smug that you got an Audi for so little. It is not a bargain!!!

Those things that distinguish the breed you want from the generic world of "dog" are only there because somebody worked really hard to get them there. And as soon as that work ceases, the dog, no matter how purebred, begins to revert to generic. That doesn't mean you won't get a good dog - the magic and the blessing of dogs is that they are so hard to mess up, in their good souls and minds, that even the most hideously bred one can still be a great dog- but it will not be a good Shepherd, or good Puli, or good Basset Hound. You will not get the specialized abilities, tendencies, or talents of the breed.

If you don't NEED those special abilities or the predictability of a particular breed, you should not be buying a dog at all. You should go rescue one. That way, you're saving a life and not putting money in pockets where it does not belong.

If you want a purebred, and you know that a rescue is not going to fit the bill, the absolute WORST thing you can do is assume that a name equals anything. They really are nothing more than names on the plates of cars. What matters is whether the engineering, design, and service departments back up the name plate so you have some expectation that you're walking away with more than a label.

Keeping a group of dogs looking and acting like their breed is hard, HARD work. If you do not get the impression that the breeder you're considering is working that hard, is that dedicated to the breed, is struggling to produce dogs that are more than a breed name, you are getting no bargain; you are only getting ripped off.

Best!
Absinthe Basset Hounds

OUR DIETARY PROTOCOL

This is the dietary protocol we use for our Basset Hounds & Whippets. While dogs (Canis Lupis Familiaris) are NOT “Obligate Carnivores” studies have proven that feeding dogs a diet low in taurine can cause heart ailments in dogs. So, we have felt it is essential to feed dogs a species appropriate whole Raw Prey diet. This is the way nature intended for dogs to eat.

KEEP IN MIND THAT WHAT YOU WANT TO AVOID IS PROCESSED FOOD. ANYTHING THAT HAS BEEN HEATED EVEN A MINUTE IN THE MICROWAVE HAS LOST ITS ENZYMES.

That's why we are against commercial dog foods. Dogs need live food, which means raw, fresh, and uncooked. Dogs should eat only meats & vegetables. Avoid all grains – most dogs become allergic to them. Also, no rice. Wheat, soy and dairy are the biggest cause of allergies in dogs (seizures are a form of allergy). Dogs are carnivores (w/developed Omnivore tendencies) and have a powerful digestive system. They have survived fourteen thousand+ years on raw meat. Since we have followed this diet our pups and adults, we NEVER had any health problems, including Intestinal upsets, Bloat, hip dysplasia, skin rashes, allergies etc. Our 13 - 14 year olds act and look as healthy as the 2 year olds! Dogs do not get worms from raw meat or raw liver – that’s an old wives’ tale. Healthy dogs will not get Salmonella from raw chicken.

We Feed all pups all they want to eat 3 times daily. If you must be gone all day, fix up meat, vegetables, or leftovers a.m. and p.m. and leave a big meaty bone. Always leave fresh water. Clean, distilled water or electrolyzed water is best!!(read all the flyers to understand why.)

RAW CHICKEN – necks, wings etc. – it is safe and very inexpensive. Raw chicken bones are harmless; it is when you cook them that they become sharp and dangerous. Salmonella and campylobacter jejuni are of no consequence to a healthy dog. You can feed the whole chicken including ribs if you prefer – any part is good which sells for a good price, always raw.

RAW MEAT - call a local butcher that does ranch slaughtering, and you can get a better price. Buy frozen meat, or fresh - cheap grade hamburger is fine. The best raw meat to feed is lamb/sheep meat – which we use. Dogs do not need to get any meat ground up – cut in pieces is better or attached to the bone is best. Ground up internal organs with muscle meat is far better than just muscle meat.

RAW LIVER - give 2-3 pieces 3 times a week, or any other organ meat; heart, kidney or tripe. Dogs must have organ meat weekly – lack of taurine – an amino acid abundant in hearts will cause dogs to seizure.

RAW EGG YOLK – Raw egg yolk – one or more daily. Boiled or scrambled eggs are fine too. Offer raw egg yolk to the dogs if you are not feeding raw liver or other raw organ meats. Be sure you use egg yolks from chickens fed free range - it will say so on the box. I highly recommend one egg daily to all dogs. Give 7 or more raw egg yolks and nothing else is necessary on days you are very busy.

SARDINES (IN OLIVE OIL) – Give one can once or twice weekly, instead of raw meat/liver. Dogs love it - it’s very, very good for your dog and a nice change now and then.

RAW or COOKED VEGETABLES (only as a filler) – cooked potatoes (great food for dogs)—carrots, or broccoli stems, or any vegetables you like or are in season like cauliflower, brussel sprouts, avocados, pumpkin, squash, peas, beans, etc. Crush raw vegetables in your Cuisinart or blender – a good way is pulp from your juicer – you drink the juice – mix pulp in dog’s food. Fruits are excellent, apples, pears etc, it’s best to steam vegetables. Then crunch and feed to dog. Raw, cooked or steamed vegetables are all ok! Personally, my dogs never get anything but raw meat.

FAST YOUR DOG ONE DAY WEEKLY - It is very healthy to fast your dog one day a week, after he is one year old.
Any of the above foods are excellent for your dog – vary his diet so not the same every day. Fasting your dog one day a week is good for him. Feed raw meaty bones from chicken, turkey, lamb, beef, rabbit, pork, as well as the muscle meat from these animals. Give him your table scraps, except highly spiced or salty food. An adult, active Basset Hound should get approximately one pound of raw meat, either chicken, lamb, sheep, deer, turkey (all are good) and/or organ meats, daily. Remember, the best way to feed is not to mix the food groups or protein sources. Best is to feed only chicken one meal or only hamburger & organ meats one meal or only vegetables for one meal with an egg yolk to make it tastier. Any Basset Hound under 6 months, should get all he wants to eat 2x daily while still growing. Adjust amount of food to your dog’s activity level; do not let him get fat. Dogs should eat a minimum of 80% meat, 10% Bone & 10% excreting organs. If you would like to have some dry dog food available, you can offer your dog one cup in a separate dish daily. Only use first a class dog food like Orijen (BUT only as a filler!

My own dogs never get processed dry food. Only feed if you are gone all day and cannot offer fresh food. Check that the dog food does not contain grains of any kind, soy or dairy products (these are trigger foods for seizures in sensitive dogs, so avoid all dry food if possible).

SUPPLEMENTS:

(These are the most important to be given daily) This is for Basset Hounds (pups and adults) – Whippets get half these dosages.

We urge you to give these supplements daily. For older dogs who have been on commercial food we strongly suggest you give 2 Enzymes daily before meals.
If you cannot feed 1 lb. of raw meaty bones daily, we suggest you substitute with 3 – 4 egg yolks on the days meat is not available. Be sure your dog gets red meat & organ meats at least 3 times weekly. Most leftovers from your table are excellent and RAW KNUCKLEBONES several times weekly – important for the minerals and to clean his teeth. Bone marrow from raw bones is very important for your dog’s hips and bones.

LYPO-SHPERIC VITAMIN C—give one packet mixed into meat daily. If you do, it is not necessary to give vegetables, this is as good of an antioxidant as a big dish of vegetables. One packet mixed into meat = 1000 mg strongly recommended you give daily to prevent hip dysplasia, arthritis in older dogs, skin problems, cancer, damaged cartilage in kneecaps, etc.

1 TRE-EN-EN (Omega 3, 6 & (essential oils needed daily)- OR 1 tablespoom of cod liver oil daily

2 ALL-C—equivilant to 6 oranges (all natural, ascorbic acid) OR 1 pakcet Lypo-spheric C daily

1 VITAMIN E+– Best antioxidant and cancer prevention-this vitamin is extremely important for your dog and yourself. It is the only natural vitamin E available in the U.S.A. and it is expensive but worth every penny.

OPTIONAL SUPPLEMENTS: (These are optional supplements if you can afford them)

1 ALPHA LIPOIC ACID- Vit. C + E + Alpha Lipoic acid will truly raise the antioxidant level in your dog. Your very best way to prevent cancer.

1 ACIDOPHILUS CAPSULE- daily to all pups to keep the stomach flora in good health. Really helps in avoiding diarrhea.

3 CAL - MAG TABLETS or 3 CALCIUM PLUS- if you do not feed raw chicken bones or any other raw bones give calcium

2 COLOSTRUM – give first thing am on an empty stomach is best to keep intestines in top shape

1 MSM – a.m. and p.m. mixed in food, or ¼ teaspoon a.m. and p.m. sprinkled on food. Optional - but highly recommended as it helps the body to absorb the Vitamin C.

1 MICROHYDRIN capsule- This is a newly discovered formula. We strongly recommended it if you like to get your dog to grow big. Also, it is a superb antioxidant for preventing cancer and disease in general. We’ll send an audio and video so you can understand how it works, just ask for it.

3 ALFALFA daily- horses, elephants live exclusively from alfalfa and they are very large

VERY IMPORTANT!!!
IDEALLY, YOU SHOULD NOT GIVE ANY DRY FOOD! IF YOU INSIST ONLY FEED ORIJEN AS A FILLER. THE REST SHOULD BE RAW MEATY BONES You can find out where to get Orijen at www.orijenpetfoods.com

A Discussion on The Species Appropriate Feeding Protocol/Whole Raw Prey Diet

8 years ago, I was asked to speak on the topic of Species Appropriate Feeding! Of course, I jumped to the challenge since this is one of my most favorite things as it relates to my involvement as a breeder of show dogs.
This is a transcript of the “Q&A” session held after the talk.

Q: I have a couple questions. I find myself looking at more & more raw feeding forums, to be honest, confusing the heck out of myself!

Some say feeding ground meat is fine, other say no. One thing I am afraid of is a dog having a problem chewing bones. Is ground that bad?

If I decided to try raw, what is the best thing to start with? I'm so afraid of doing something wrong and I'm very afraid of my two dogs not getting all they need to be healthy. You have such an assortment of proteins, I'm at a loss of where to start and what to do. Is there a "starter kit" for newbies such as myself?

A: You will find conflicting info from different raw feeders. You have the whole prey feeders that believe you should never feed ground meats, you have people that will tell you to add fruits and vegetables so yes, it can be confusing.

This, is my opinion (I am a Certified Canine Nutritionist): Do dogs need ground up food? No, this is a human issue not a dog issue as canine teeth are very capable of chewing bone except leg bones of large ungulates.

However, do I think it hurts to feed ground meats/bones/organs? Again, NO The reason some people say not to feed ground is due to more bacteria being on the surface of ground meats compared to non-ground. Also, the naysayers will tell you that you don't know what is in the grind and so you are better off feeding whole pieces as this way you have more control. Both these points are valid points, but I believe you must trust the source.

Many raw food companies grind backs or necks and then add fruits or vegetables to the grind. In my opinion this is not a good option. Pieces of meat such as backs, or necks are way too high in bone and not enough meat and in order to keep the food from causing major constipation issues they add the vegetables and fruits. To me this is a way of "cheeping out" and is not needed in a carnivore’s diet. There is no nutritional need for carbohydrates, fruits or vegetables in a dog or cats’ diet.

What I typically recommend to people starting out is to do what makes you feel most comfortable. Most people do start out with ground products. Once feeding for a while you evolve, and you should feed meaty edible bones also. The benefit of feeding meaty bones is jaw exercise as well as the benefit of teeth cleaning. By ripping and chewing the meat the teeth also get cleaned [natures toothbrush].

When feeding meaty bones especially if you have a dog that gulps food the secret is to feed bigger pieces. If you feed very large pieces the dog cannot swallow this whole and will have to work at chewing the food.

What I personally do is feed a combination of both ground meat/bone/organs, some meaty bones and then also I feed some boneless meats and organs. Variety is the key to raw feeding. You are not aiming to feed a "complete and balanced" meal at every serving but to achieve the balance over time by feeding variety. You should aim for 80% meat, 10% edible bone and 10% organ meats. Out of the 10% organ meats 5% of this should be liver as liver is the largest organ in the body.

The ground meats ratios from our sources, will vary a bit as different meats have different bone contents, ratios can be found within our product descriptions. Again, keep in mind that by feeding variety, balance can be achieved over time. This is not “rocket- science.” Your dog is a wolf in designer clothing. Their DNA is 99.8% identical to the gray wolf. Feed your dog how wolves eat. The primary meat of a wolf diet would be red meats, and this should be the staple of the diet. Some examples of red meats would be beef, goat, sheep, pork, venison, bison, etc.

Can you feed poultry, fish, rabbit? Certainly, as wolves would eat what they can find but the staple would be red meats, and this is how I feel a dog should eat.

Rabbit is typically suggested to start with. Even though eventually you will be feeding more red meats than white, rabbit is a good start as it has a bit higher bone content and will help keep the stools firmer doing the transition.

Feed this only for 3-5 weeks. After that add a second meat source such as beef, pork or goat. Alternate the 2 for a couple weeks. Then add a third meat source and so on and so on.

When determining the amount to feed you base it on the dogs’ IDEAL body weight. My experience has been that smaller dogs typically eat 3% of their body weight per day. Larger dogs eat 2% per day. If after a couple weeks you notice the dog is losing or gaining weight, the amount you are feeding increase or decrease the food a bit.

Q: I have fed my dogs raw with success but wanted to try my own feeding instead of Premade, or other type manufacturers. I have dogs, and one has horrible allergies. I have spent quite a bit of money and many anxious days trying to find the right foods for him. He is definitely allergic to poultry, and most likely grain, but until he's allergy tested, I won't know for sure.

I like raw but have started seeing a holistic vet who recommended putting him on 'cool' meats such as goat or rabbit. Rabbit/goat is hard to find, so I've been using freeze-dried raw for practical reasons.

Having recently rescued another dog, I want to put them all on the same diet, and really can't wait to get them started with your products. I really think feeding them the straight raw diet will eliminate his ailments.

Sorry for the lengthy email, here's my questions. Do you recommend switching your meats? I read where you said variety is the key.

My husband is squeamish about the raw to begin with, and he gets queasy when he watches them eat meaty bones. SO (sigh)...do you think the ordering rabbit and goat (with bone and organ) would be enough variety? I think beef/bison would be okay, but I'll double check with the vet; I'm also going to show her your other meat sources, that aren't poultry, and get feedback. Is it okay to switch daily, or do you recommend switching meat sources daily, weekly, monthly, etc.? Lastly, thank you for making this product and info available.

The number of vets pushing kibble is ridiculous; one I went to hadn't even really heard of any raw diets. When I adopted these sweet babies, I wanted to give them the best possible. I truly believe you will help me do that, thanks again!

A: No worries about your email being “long,” as I truly appreciate the depth of your question. I am not a vet but here at Absinthe Basset Hounds, I have over 50 years of experience with this feeding protocol. Additionally, I am a Certified Canine Nutritionist, and that goes a long way as well. I get emails like yours pretty much on a daily basis. I cannot tell you specifically what you should do with your pets as I am not a vet but will share my experiences and resources with you and you can make your own decisions.

When people tell me their dog/cat is allergic to poultry, it typically is not poultry [or other meats] that is the issue.

A lot of the poultry [as well as pork] offered these days are enhanced. An enhanced solution is injected into the meat. Typically, this is salt, sugar, possibly MSG, etc. The solution is what causes skin and allergy issues NOT the meat itself. It is very rare for an animal to be allergic to meat. Read sodium contents if purchasing meat form the grocery store or contact the manufacturer if buying pre-made, the sodium content should be less than 100 mg per 4 ounce serving. Any more than that it is enhanced. Even labeling can be tricky as some producers label all natural and still enhance with salt which is a natural ingredient. Also, if buying kosher meats this also is very high in sodium.
Premade raw or dehydrated products usually contain added ingredients. These added ingredients are fruits, vegetables, herbs, yeast, etc. You must read ingredients. Fruits and root-based vegetables such as carrots and sweet potatoes are high in sugar. Sugar converts to yeast which can cause skin and ear issues. There is no nutritional need for either in a carnivore’s diet.

Cooling foods: This is based on Chinese medicine. Personally, I don't buy into that and would only try that as a last resort once all inappropriate ingredients where eliminated and was feeding a proper raw diet for 6 months minimum and then if there were no improvements then possibly try that as a last resort. Also, vaccines can cause long term immune issues. If vaccinosis is suspected a classic homeopath needs to be consulted. This is NOT the same as a vet advertising as holistic. Just because a vet advertises as holistic does not mean they are knowledgeable on a raw diet or vaccine issues. I have met a few that have had no clue!

Allergy testing: Unreliable and I would not waste my money. Only way to know of a true allergy is by doing an elimination diet. An elimination diet is feeding one meat only [with bones and organs] for 2 months. Ideally using a novel protein, the dog has not had before. After that you introduce 1 new meat into the diet every couple weeks. This way if your dog has a true allergy it is very easy to pinpoint but again this is very, very rare.

Switching meats: Variety is the key to raw feeding and with dogs red meat should be the staple. Your dog is a wolf in designer clothing and has a DNA which is 99.8% identical to a gray wolf. If you research what wolves eat in the wild their primary source of food is large ungulates [red meats] I have a sample of how I feed my dogs at the bottom of the page.

When first starting raw you do not want to add too much variety to soon. You will work up to this as you progress. Start with one meat protein for the first couple weeks. If you don't want to start with poultry which is recommended because of higher bone content [see above question] you can certainly start with another meat such as goat, llama, rabbit, etc.

This is good info on wolves’ diets. Dr David Mech is the foremost authority on wolves and this is his research http://www.wolf.org/learn/basic-wolf-info/wolf-faqs/#r

Squeamish partners: If you choose to own a carnivore then you must do right by them and feed them as mother nature intended. If your comfort level is to start with ground products, then do that. Try to work up to at least some meaty bone meals as you dog will benefit from ripping and chewing which helps keep the teeth clean.

How I Feed My Dogs (2000 – 2010)

I get a lot of emails asking for a sample of how I feed my dogs.

Here is a 2-week sample of what I feed. My dogs are all adults (and youngsters over 6 months) and are fed once a day.

Sunday: Beef trim or heart
Monday: Large goat bone
Tuesday: Ground beef/bone/organ/tripe
Wednesday: Pork heart with pork liver
Thursday: Ground tripe/spleen
Friday: Ground/pork/bones/organs
Saturday: Beef gullet and ground beef organs
Sunday: Ground tripe/spleen
Monday: Pork trim or heart
Tuesday: Ground venison/beef blend
Wednesday: Ground Goat or Lamb/bones/organs
Thursday: Chicken necks with some boneless poultry added
Friday: Meaty beef or mutton bones with beef kidney
Saturday Ground beef/bones/organs/tripe

I also give them salmon oil or sardine/anchovy oil for the Omega 3 fatty acids. On days that they are not fed ground meats that I can squirt the oil in I give them a raw egg with the oil. I also supplement with the GLM powder for my older dogs which is either mixed with ground meats or added to an egg.

Our Vaccine Protocol

Here is an immunity protocol that I have been using with my dogs for years:

Never vaccinate your puppy before 12 weeks of age if you have the choice.
If your puppy has been vaccinated early, any medical condition may or may not be a vaccine side effect. I recommend consulting an open-minded holistic practitioner who knows how to recognize vaccine-related issues.
If you suspect vaccination side effects, you can safely administer a homeopathic remedy Thuja 200 C – 1 dose to neutralize vaccination side effects.
Maternal antibodies protect puppies fully until 12 – 16 weeks. When your puppy is 12 weeks old, get a parvovirus and distemper “antibody titer test” done.
If any antibody level is present, retest at the age of 5 months and socialize with your puppy on a moderate basis with other dogs. Your puppy will learn the “ropes” by being in the company of other canines, and its exposure to pathogens while it is protected will stimulate the production of its own antibodies. This is, in fact, nature's “way of vaccination”, and this is exactly what vaccine companies don’t want you to know.
To me, any level of antibodies suggests protection, despite some labs reporting low titers as insufficient. In fact, no one can say what levels are or aren’t low. I have never seen parvo or distemper in dogs that have had even a low positive titer.
If your puppy tests negative for antibodies, consider vaccination with one antigen of parvovirus (not a combination) at 12 weeks and distemper 4 weeks later.
Retest for antibodies 1 month and then 2–3 months after the vaccine and then 2 – 3 months later.
If your puppy’s titer continues to be negative, you will have to make a decision about which risk is higher – boosters or the incidence of an infectious disease.
Never use vaccines for Kennel Cough, Lymes disease, and Giardia as they have the highest side-effect-causing properties.
If you live in an area with rabies, the vaccine may need to be given, however, give it at least 4 weeks from other vaccination and talk to your veterinarian about the rabies incidence in your area.

It may be shocking, but many healthy puppies maintain lifetime antibodies with zero vaccination except for rabies.

My my dogs, I always try to avoid them whenever possible. It has been my experience that this is the best way to create healthy and long life… HOWEVER, I DO vaccinate puppies leaving my home based on the protocol information I receive from the recipient "Forever Family's" Vet....and then I cross my fingers, chant NAM-MYOHO-RENGE-KYO, and hope for the best.

Crate Training

Your Puppy’s Safe Haven (How To Help Him Love It)

Why might my dog need to be confined?

Dogs are highly social animals that make wonderful pets. They can be effective as watchdogs, are excellent companions for play and exercise, and are sources of affection and comfort. However, with the lifestyle and schedule of the majority of families, dogs must learn to spend a portion of the day at home, while their human family is away at school, work, shopping or engaging in recreational activities. During those times when you are away and unavailable to supervise, the pet may still feel the need to chew, play, explore, eat, or eliminate. These behaviors can be very distressing and damaging to the home. Confining your dog to a play area with its toys is akin to putting a young child in its playpen; while teaching your dog to relax and sleep in its crate or bed would be similar to putting your baby in its crib when its time for bedtime or a nap.

How can this misbehavior be prevented?

Preventing inappropriate behaviors when you are absent involves both scheduling and prevention. Scheduling means ensuring that the pet has had the opportunity to play, eat, and eliminate before you leave it in its confinement area or crate. By maintaining a regular daily routine and timing your departures (or other daily commitments) at a time when your dog would normally be napping or playing with its own toys, there should be minimal resistance to confinement. Prevention involves keeping the pet in a confined area where it is secure, safe, and can do no damage to itself or your possessions.

What are my options for confinement?

Depending on the structure of your home, it may be possible to confine your dog to a limited portion of your home, by closing a few doors, or putting up some child gates or barricades. The dog can then be allowed access to the remaining areas of the house.

Another option is to use avoidance devices that keep the pet away from selected areas (see our handout on ‘Behavior management products’). If dog-proofing is not possible when you must leave your dog unsupervised, you might need to confine your dog to a single room, pen, or crate.

This smaller confinement area not only provides safety for the dog and protection of the home from damage, but also provides a means of teaching the dog what it is supposed to chew, and where it is supposed to eliminate i.e. setting up for success rather than attempting to punish what might be undesirable, but normal play, exploration, scavenging or elimination.

Isn’t crate training cruel?

Crate training is neither cruel nor unfair. On the contrary, leaving the dog unsupervised to wander, investigate, destroy, and perhaps injure itself is far more inhumane than confinement. Ensure that the crate is large enough for your dog to stand, turn and play with its toys. Proper timing and scheduling can help your dog to adapt. Be certain that your dog has had enough play, exercise, attention, and an opportunity to eliminate before confinement, and that you return before the dog next needs to eliminate. Ideally the pet should be placed in its crate at times of the day when it is due for a nap, or when it normally amuses itself by playing with its own toys.

Although confinement should be used when you cannot supervise your dog, when you are at home you must try to keep the pet with you (except during the pet’s nap times), as this is the only way to train and reinforce desirable behavior and direct the pet away from undesirable behavior. Be sure not to require your pet to be confined longer than wait to eliminate.

What are the benefits of crate training?

Confinement training has many benefits. It keeps your pet safe and prevents damage to household possessions. The crate also provides a place of security; a comfortable retreat where the dog can relax, sleep, or chew on a favorite toy. Confining the pet to a crate or room, when the owner is not available to supervise can immediately prevent behavior problems. If the puppy is crated when it is napping or playing with its own toys, the risk for over-attachment and separation anxiety might be reduced. While in the crate the puppy learns to spend time away from the owners napping or engaging in play behavior When you are at home, supervision and rewards can be used to prevent undesirable behavior, and to teach the dog where to eliminate, what to chew, and what rooms and areas are “out of bounds.”

Will crate confinement help with house-training?

Crate training is one of the quickest and most effective ways to house-train a dog. Since most dogs instinctively avoid eliminating in their sleeping and eating areas, dogs that use their crate as a bed or “den” will seldom eliminate inside unless they have been left in the crate for too long or they are excessively anxious when confined. Crate training can also help teach the dog to develop control over its elimination.

As soon as your dog is released from its crate, take it to the designated area and reward elimination at acceptable locations. Since the crate prevents chewing, digging, and elimination on the owner’s home and property, owners of crate trained puppies have fewer behavior concerns, the puppy receives far less discipline and punishment, and the overall relationship between pet and owner can be dramatically improved.

Will the crate provoke barking?

The crate can also be a useful way to reduce or eliminate distress barking. Rather than locking the puppy up and away from the owners at nighttime or during mealtime, the puppy can be housed in its crate in the bedroom or kitchen. In this way the puppy cannot get into mischief, and is less likely to cry out or vocalize, with the owners in the room. Of course, if the puppy is not napping and you are available to supervise your puppy should be out and about with you watching closely to ensure that it comes to no harm and does not get into mischief. Distress vocalization is far more likely for owners that lock their puppy out of harm’s way in a laundry or basement with no access to them. When and if the owner then goes to the puppy to quiet it down or check it out, the crying behavior is rewarded.

Are there other benefits to caging?

Throughout its life, whether traveling or boarding, your dog may require crate confinement for varying periods of time. Dogs that are comfortable with crating are more likely to feel secure, and far less stressed, should caging be required. By bringing along the dog’s bedding or its own crate for boarding or veterinary visits, the pet may feel even more settled and relaxed.

What type of crate or confinement area works best?

A metal, collapsible crate with a tray floor works well, as long as the crate is large enough for the dog to stand, turn, and stretch out. Some dogs feel more secure if a blanket is draped over the crate. A plastic traveling crate or a homemade crate can also be used. Playpens or barricades may also be successful as long as they are indestructible and escape proof.

Where should the crate be located?

Because dogs are social animals, an ideal location for the crate is a room where the family spends time such as a kitchen, den, or in a bedroom where the dog might sleep at night.

How can crating or confinement become a positive experience?

Most dogs quickly choose a small area, such as a corner of a room, in a dog bed, or on or under a couch, where they go to relax. If your puppy has just recently been acquired from the breeder or kennel, crate training should be relatively easy, since your puppy is likely already accustomed to sleeping in a pen or crate.

The key to making the crate the dog’s favorite retreat and sleeping area, is to associate the crate with as many positive and relaxing experiences and stimuli as possible (treats, chew toys, bedding) and to place the dog in its cage when playing with new toys, during scheduled rest and sleep periods or even as a feeding area. You must therefore plan and be aware of the dog’s schedule, including its needs for exploration, play, food, and elimination, so that the dog is only placed in its cage, when each of these needs is fulfilled.

You must then return to the dog to release it from its cage before the next exercise, feeding or elimination period is due. A radio or television playing in the background may help to calm the dog when it is alone in its cage, especially during the daytime. These may also help to mask environmental noises that can stimulate the dog to vocalize. The crate should not be used for punishment.

How do I crate-train my new Absinthe puppy?

Introduce the puppy to the crate as soon as it is brought home and as early in the day as possible. Place a variety of treats in the cage throughout the day so that the puppy is encouraged to enter voluntarily. Bedding, toys and water can also be offered to the puppy in the open cage. Food might also be placed in the pen or crate if you wish to also designate it as a feeding area.

Choose a location outdoors for the puppy to eliminate. Take the puppy to the location, wait until the puppy eliminates, and reward the puppy lavishly with praise or food. After some additional play and exercise, and when you feel its time for your puppy to take a nap (or when you see your puppy begin to settle down for nap), place the puppy in its crate with water, a toy and a treat and close the door.

If the puppy is tired and calm, it may take a “nap” shortly after being placed in its crate. If not, be certain to provide a few novel and stimulating toys or chews for play. In this way the crate serves one of two functions – as your puppy’s bed (crib) or your puppy’s play area (playpen).

Leave the room but remain close enough to hear the puppy. Escape behavior and vocalization are to be expected when a dog is first placed into its crate. If the “complaints” are short or mild, ignore your puppy until the crying stops. Never release the puppy unless it is quiet. This teaches that quiet behavior, and not crying will be rewarded. Release the puppy after a few minutes of quiet or a short nap.

A brief disruption may be useful to deter crying if it does not subside on its own. A shaker can (a sealed can filled with coins or marbles) can be tossed at the crate when the pup barks. Other methods include water sprayers or alarms (audible or ultrasonic). The owner should remain out of sight. By plugging in an alarm, tape recorder, or hair dryer beside the crate and turning it on with a remote control switch each time the dog barks, the dog can be taught that barking has unpleasant consequences whether the owner is present or not. When the barking ceases, the disruption is stopped. Bark collars and alarms that are activated by the barking are also available for persistent problems.

These techniques must be used with caution, since it can exacerbate the vocalization problem of a very anxious pet. Repeat the cage and release procedure a few more times during the day at naptime and each time your puppy is given a toy or chew with which to play. Each time increase the time that the dog must stay in the crate before letting it out.

Always give the puppy exercise and a chance to eliminate before securing it in the crate. At bedtime, the dog should be exercised, secured in its crate, and left for the night. Do not go to the dog if it cries. Remote punishment can be used to deter crying. The crate might remain in the same place as it has been during the day or might be moved (or a second crate used) to the bedroom.

If the pup sleeps in one end of its crate and eliminates in the other, a divider can be installed to keep the puppy in a smaller area providing the puppy is not required to spend more time in the crate than it is capable of holding it’s urine or stool If the puppy must eliminate, it does not matter how small the area is; the puppy will have to eliminate. Never leave the puppy in its crate for longer than it can control itself or it may be forced to eliminate in the crate.

If the pup must be left for long periods during which it might eliminate, it should be confined to a larger area such as a dog-proof room or pen, with paper left down for elimination. As the puppy gets older, its control increases, and it can be left longer in its crate.

Although there is a great deal of individual variability, many puppies can control themselves through the night by 3 months of age. During the daytime, once the puppy has relieved itself, a 2-month old puppy may have up to 3 hours control, a 3-month puppy up to 4 hours, and a 4-month old puppy up to 5 hours.

A crate is not an excuse to ignore the dog! You can use your crate a lot, or a little – every day, or just for occasional travel and emergencies. But regardless, in my opinion, it’s a life skill your dog should have.

So, buckle down, grab some treats, and get to work 😊

Best,
Dr. Brian Dofford-Johnson, PhD NLP
Absinthe Basset Hounds
www.absinthemenagerie.com

VACCINES

I am relieved that there are now research studies available that confirm that the practice of yearly dog vaccination has absolutely no scientific basis and that most dogs' immunity lasts at least 8 years and possibly even a lifetime.

Vaccines are a fiery topic. All I can do is to give you my humble opinions, experience, and research I gleaned from my Holistic Veterinary Provider.

Natural immunity obtained from the milk of mothers persists in most puppies until 12 – 16 weeks of age.
Vaccinating puppies before 12 weeks will “wipe” out the maternal antibodies, which leave puppies more vulnerable to infections.
Vaccines contain serious carcinogens such as “thiomersal” (that contains mercury), formaldehyde, and other chemicals.
Most people are unaware that vaccines are often produced by infecting and sacrificing healthy animals. To me, the notion of killing one to save another is insane, and I feel obligated to inform you about this practice.
Vaccines can also cause chronic, often lifelong disease that resembles the disease that they are supposed to prevent. Some good examples are digestive problems, skin issues, or mental and behavioral changes that disappear after neutralizing the effects vaccines have with homeopathic remedies.
Most vaccines bypass the natural entry gates of infection such as the mouth or the airways and this is a severe shock to the immune system. How would you feel if a person entered your house through breaking the windows (the analogy for an injection) as opposed to ringing the bell?
The administration of multiple antigen vaccines is also a very unnatural way of creating immunity. In nature, usually, only one serious disease pathogen would be present at the time, allowing the body to focus fully on one pathogen. Giving combination vaccines makes the immune system overwhelmed, the same way you would if you were working on several major projects at the same time.

Our Placement Protocol

When do I pick up my puppy?

This is a very good question regarding a very exciting time! Puppies born in our program are ready to be rehomed at 12 weeks of age. This is so we can provide the puppies with the best and most solid foundation for their journey into a new life.

We make this a very special time by having what we have come to call our “HomeGoing Party.” All of the folks who are getting puppies from a particular litter are invited to our home for ….well, a very lovely gathering with food, some parting gifts, good company, and of course PUPPIES! Since we no longer ship puppies, this is the only way for folks to collect their Absinthe puppy. The remaining balance is due seven (7) days prior to the HomeGoing Party via direct deposit.

HOW I RAISE PUPPIES:

This is a brief overview of what goes on from planning the litter, all the way to the puppies leaving when they are 11 - 12 weeks old.

First It is important to note that I Raise My Puppies Using Puppy Culture & they are evaluated using the Volhard Temperament Testing protocol & the Empowered Breeder Program.

Each litter is carefully planned, before the breeding even takes place. Once a female is pregnant, I take the utmost care before they whelp. When a female goes into labor it can take up to 48 hours before the first puppy is born. Each litter is like Christmas morning and each puppy is a new present that I get the privilege to nurture. After all puppies are born the first 72 hours are critical. To make sure each puppy is gaining weight and thriving, puppies are weighed twice a day for the first week and then once a day from week two (2) to week four (4).

After the first 7 days we start ENS (Early Neurological Stimulation). ENS gives each puppy the best start possible at life. It gets them used to being touched, handled, and manipulated. Also, at 7 days old I will put photos of the litter up on my website.
At 2 weeks of age the puppies start to open their eyes and ears. Toys begin to make their appearance in the whelping box. This helps the puppies start to get used to other textures, smells, and sounds (interactive baby toys). They also start to get their voice! They start to growl, and bark and whine.
At 3 weeks, they get head and noise sensitive. We make a point to make sure that they "recover" when they hear a scary, or loud noise.
At 5 weeks old they move out of a whelping box into their first x-pen. Everyday new toys are introduced to help with their sensory development. Additionally at 5 weeks, the puppies are being weaned on to what we hope is their forever diet. We provide a Species Appropriate Whole Raw Prey diet for our dogs and puppies and have been doing so for 35+ years.
When the puppies are six (6) weeks old, we start inviting family and friends to meet the puppies. We start exploring the house more and they get more interactive toys, (crinkle tunnel, interactive baby toys, socks with rattles stuff inside, etc.)
At week 6, if the weather is nice, we start going outside daily, weather permitting.
Once the puppies are 7 weeks old the vet visits start, and the car rides begin. The puppies are also evaluated for temperament and conformation. After the evaluations I post the results in the monthly newsletter. Also, at this time, (if I haven’t done so already) I call each family to tell them which puppy I have identified for them. The puppy that I have identified for you is what I feel is the best fitting puppy for your family.
At 8 weeks the puppies go to my vet for their health check. By week 8 we start potty training outside. Each puppy gets a lot of 1 on 1 time. (PAT, nature walks, being held, etc.)
When the puppies are between 10 – 11 weeks old, they are ready to leave for their Forever Homes!

WHICH PUPPY IS MINE?

The puppy which will be coming to your home and heart is chosen by us and our choice is based on all the information we have gained from your Application/Questionnaire. Also, there is a litter theme, and all puppies have been given a name based on the litter theme. This cannot be changed. However, the choice of a “Call Name” is entirely yours.

What comes with my puppy?

When you come to pick up your puppy, he/she will be bathed and groomed. The puppy will also come with an extensive puppy packet which includes:

AKC Registration Certificate
3 generation pedigree,
Certified Health Certificate
Signed Purchase Agreement
Toys
Nursery Record
Vaccination Records
2 lb tub of “My Pet Carnivore” (this is the feed our puppies/dogs eat),
A “security” blanket that smells like their litter mates.

My Goal:

My goal as a breeder is to not only better my breed but also send home a happy healthy puppy that is afraid of nothing.

Questions:

If you have any questions, please feel free to call me or email me. Please note, I do not respond to text messages or PMs sent on social media (I only have Facebook…just know that I visit my Facebook page probably 2 or 3 times per week). The best way to reach out to me is via the “Old Fashioned” telephone method, email, or “snail mail” (read: USPS)

Deposits:

The deposit at Absinthe is $250.00. The deposit is NON-REFUNDABLE (unless I cancel). So, please be certain that it is Absinthe from where you want to obtain your puppy. Do all your research and “shopping” before tendering your deposit to us.

The deposit holds a spot in the litter. I do NOT take a deposit on a specific color. I do take all preferences you specified when you completed your “Inquiry/Questionnaire” into consideration when giving you options off puppies.

Okay you're the breeder for me, now what?

At 9 weeks once each puppy has been evaluated and after the extensive interview I had with you via phone, I start to assign puppies to a person/family. Photos are posted regularly on Facebook and for those persons not on Facebook, I email them photos directly.

Gender, temperament, energy level, intelligence, coat color are all the things I take into consideration when I am making assignments for puppies. However, please know I will not strictly sell a puppy based on how cute or one or two factors. They must be the whole package for your home.